Ratatouille is a Mediterranean stew of summer vegetables that comes from the South of France (more specifically, Provence), though its reach extends far beyond that. At its heart, ratatouille is a rustic dish, designed to make use of all the produce that's abundant in spring and summer. It is a bright and chunky summer vegetable stew, rich with olive oil and fragrant with garlic, herbs and a touch of lemon juice. Though it is a bit time-intensive to make, the great thing is that ratatouille improves significantly after the flavors have a chance to mingle overnight. So I would like to make a huge portion at a time, and then I will have a tasty and colorful base for meals for the next few days. I pair it with Red Wine Braised Oxtail, or serve noodles/pasta over it, wrap in my Spring Pancake (春饼) , or simply serve on top of a warm slice of baguette or ciabatta …

Another good variation is to roast the vegetables instead of sautéeing . That really brings out the sweetness of vegetables, and a little bit less time consuming. I hope I can share it soon.

今天的主菜是红酒牛尾煲。它胶质饱满,滑糯并济,富郁香浓,入口即化。瘦肉与胶质相隔相间得那般洽到好处,实属难得好物。而且越是细的那段越滑糯。这道菜以红葱头与蕃茄建立底味,靠 thyme and rosemary成就整道菜的风味。所以我挑选了风格上相得益彰的 ratatouille 作为配菜。虽然是配菜,却是我特别想聊聊的话话题。

最初接触ratatouille这个词,是因从那部名为ratatouille(料理鼠王)的动画片。一个可怜的孤儿Linguini,收留了一只人人喊打无处可逃的老鼠Remy 。偏偏这只老鼠是一个梦想成为大厨,极赋灵性的天才美食家。 可怜的男孩每天将小老鼠随身带着。他在小老鼠的遥控指导下掌勺,从餐馆打杂变成了独当一面,厨艺精湛的主厨,餐馆从此顾客盈门。动画片中最令人印象最深刻的一幕是一位古怪刁钻的美食评论家Anton Ego吃了男孩做的ratatouille后,一向挑剔不屑的神情顿时间如千年冰霜被一股暖流融化,层层紧裹的花瓣在面庞上烂漫绽放。Anton 那如浴春风的神情带着观众一起回到了他的童年, 回到了他儿时妈妈为他做的那顿晚餐,那道最纯朴最温暖最美味的ratatouille.

动画片中的那道ratatouille,是华丽优雅的摆盘。其实ratatouille就是一个蔬菜大杂烩,一道接地气的法式家常菜,中文可以译为普罗旺斯炖杂菜。你可以联想一下南京人过年必备的素十锦,或是我们熟知的东北名菜地三鲜,是多种素菜合一的做法。尤其是地三鲜,竟然连原料都有重合,同有茄子,甜椒,蒜。 那又是什么造就了这中西两种菜肴之间截然不同的的风味呢?这其中的关键是使用的香料/调味料的不同。地三鲜里,酱油是主要的调味料。而ratatouille里,主要是thyme and rosemary两种香草料。新鲜的thyme 是温和芬芳优雅的香气,rosemary则相对浓烈热情。它们的香气遇热释放,随着油分子水分子渗入各种蔬菜,将所有蔬菜牵手,滋味相融,成为一体,妙不可言。 地三鲜里,蒜在出锅前放入,短暂遇热散发出清冽甘甜的香气。而ratatouille是在最开始的时候用热油煸炒洋葱与蒜至焦黄,这之后再逐一炒制其它蔬菜。炒香洋葱与蒜为成菜建立了浓郁的底味。最后出锅前,加入罗勒叶与柠檬汁,调出新鲜的气息,平衡浓郁的底味。

美食评论家伊苟心中的ratatouille,是什么味道,我做的ratatouille是不是他喜欢的风格,我不得而知,也并不在意。每人有每人的版本,每家有每家的味道,各自珍爱。美食往往是混合了许多情感的载体,几年前的一个周未,我做的那盘ratatouille,配上一条温热法棍时的惊喜,尽兴与满足,是我和女儿共同拥有的回忆,我相信女儿一直记着那个味道。有一天在某个地方,她会说起,我妈妈做的ratatouille ⋯⋯

Ratatouille是为了配焖烤牛尾而做的。这两道菜,一荤一素,都是风味浓郁的菜色,风格上相呼相应,是很搭挡的两道菜。配上新鲜出炉的baguette 或是ciabatta, 天寒地冻的天气,吃上一份,会倍感幸福与温暖与满足的。


Ratatouille 还可以用烤箱做,口感稍有不同,也非常棒。牛尾用来炖汤,甚是鲜美浓郁,制作过程要简单许多。这两样以后有机会分享。



  • Olive Oil or other vegetable oil

  • Salt, 1 teaspoon (split to 4 portions of ¼ teaspoon, each portion for sautéeing one vegetable)

  • 1 big sweet onion, sliced

  • 2-3 garlic cloves, smashed

  • A few sprigs fresh thyme, chopped; save some for garnish

  • A few sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped) (optional); save some for garnish

  • 2 big bell peppers (red, orange and/or yellow), cut into 1-inch pieces

  • 2 medium zucchini (2 lb)quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick pieces

  • 1 big eggplant (about 1 pound) + 1tsp salt, peeling and cut into 1 x 1 inch squares, salt with 1tsp salt

  • 2 big ripe tomatoes, blanched with hot water for 10 seconds, peeled and cut into 1 x 1 inch squares

  • A bunch of fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped; save some for garnish

  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • Fresh sweet basil

  • Lemon juice

  • Parsley, sweet basil, thyme, and/or rosemary, for garnishing


Sept 1 Cut and prepare vegetables:

  1. Begin by cutting all the vegetables to the sizes indicated above. Place each in a separate bowl. Place eggplant in a bowl and add 1teaspoon salt. Toss to coat and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Then drain and squeeze with hand extra juice/water out, make sure to dry very well with a paper towel.

Step 2 Cook each vegetable separately, each with some oil and salt:

  1. Heat up a large cast iron skillet on stove, add in 2 tablespoons olive oil, add in onion slices, smashed garlic, thyme, rosemary, , and ¼ teaspoon salt, sauté over medium heat, until lightly browned (about 10 minutes). Transfer to a large bowl with a slotted spoon.

  2. Wipe skillet clean with wet paper towel if necessary. Then add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet, sauté the bell peppers with 1/4 teaspoon salt until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer bell peppers to the large bowl.

  3. Wipe skillet clean with wet paper towel if necessary. Then add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet, sauté the zucchini with 1/4 teaspoon salt, until just tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer zucchini to the large bowl.

  4. Wipe skillet clean with wet paper towel if necessary. Then add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet, sauté the eggplant with 1/4 teaspoon salt, until soften, about 10 minutes

  5. Add 1 tablespoons oil to skillet, then sauté the tomato until the tomatoes are broken down into a sauce/very soften, about 5-8 minutes; then add in chopped parsley.

Step 3 Mix all vegetables together to bring together all flavors, sprinkle with lemon juice, garnish with herbs and serve

  1. Add the cooked vegetables back to the skillet, gently stir to bring it all together, cook for 5-10 minutes, uncovered, to reduce some of the liquid, if any, until all flavors are brought together.

  2. Salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with lemon juice. And then let it rest for over 30 minutes before serving.

  3. Serve warm or chilled. Garnish with fresh basil, thyme, rosemary, or parsley to your choice before serving. Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 5 days.





Tips 生花妙笔:

Staub Perfect Pan Wok (30cm) is an ideal pan to cook this dish. It retains heat well and gives nice char flavor to the vegetables. Staub enamel cast iron products are always my favorite. Its nonstick black matte enamel interior and tight-fitting lid detailed with self-basting spikes are ideal for searing meats/vegetables and for creating slow-cooked, flavor-enhanced meals.

用铸铁锅炒这道菜, 效果非常理想。 厚实的锅体聚热性极好, 炒制蔬菜不会出水, 蔬菜带有锅气,味道香浓。

Staub 是我最满意的品牌, 品质优异。 我的Staub 铸铁炒锅是类似这样的。Staub Perfect Pan Wok (30cm)

红色更漂亮 - love this red-colored one: